Roast Duck with Spice Rub

Duck roasted with a spice rub stays moist inside and crisp outside

Roast Duck with Spice Rub

It may not be traditional, but I prefer roast duck to turkey during Thanksgiving. Duck is nearly all dark meat and thanks to the fat content of the animal, has a very rich and savory flavor.

The average duck weighs between 5 and 8 pounds, so duck is also a good choice for a small gathering. Like a turkey or chicken, a roasting duck comes with giblets; set these aside after thawing the bird, because we'll add them to our rice pilaf side dish.

In order to keep the meat moist but allow the fat to render away, I coat the duck inside and out with a spice rub. Because duck has a unique and to some, overpowering, flavor, it can handle one that is fairly spicy. The inclusion of baking powder creates a dry, crisp skin and doesn't add an overly salty flavor to the duck. It does create the same sodium barrier that keeps the flesh moist. In addition, I create an air pocket in underneath the skin. This allows all of the subcutaneous fat to release and helps the skin to crisp and brown.

To create the air pocket, gently lift the skin away from the meat using a wooden spoon. Use your hand to loosen the skin over the drumsticks (it is less icky if you put on a disposable food service glove), wings and neck area. Then, rub the fowl over the skin, under the skin and inside the cavity with the spice rub.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place prepared duck on a roasting rack and roast, uncovered, for 20 minutes per pound. Allow to rest at least 10 minutes before carving in order to preserve the juices.

Spice rub
1 tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. ground paprika
1 tsp. ground mustard
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

Sunday dinner: Wine braised duck

I love duck, but the local stores only stock it around Christmas. Which is why on my last trip to Gordon Food Service, I snagged as many of the remaining frozen ducks as I could.

Duck is a bit challenging to cook well. Because ducks are waterfowl, they develop a thick layer of fat under the skin that helps keep them well insulated. Unfortunately, this all comes spilling out during cooking, creating a greasy pool in which the roast swims. One of the ways this recipe helps to combat a fatty or greasy taste and texture is its addition of wine to the braising liquid. Wine adds an acidic touch and helps to cut through the richness.

This recipe also cooks the duck in three stages, offering you the chance to drain off the excess fat during cooking and produce a nicely browned duck with crisp skin and moist meat. The root vegetables absorb the flavor and offer some enhancements of their own.

Wine Braised Duck
1 5-8 pound duckling, giblets removed
1/2 c. white wine
1 c. chicken stock
2 baking potatoes, peeled and diced
4 parsnips, peeled and diced
1 medium onion, diced
2 tbsp butter
dried parsley
kosher salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place duck, breast side down, in a shallow roasting pan. Tuck wings under. Slide a wooden spoon underneath the skin, lifting the skin away from the meat gently. Using a gloved hand, rub the flesh under the skin with a fine layer of kosher salt.  Roast uncovered for 45 minutes.

In the meantime, melt 2 tbsp. butter in saucepan or skillet. Add diced root vegetables and saute until onion is tender and other vegetables are browned. Remove from heat and set aside.

Remove duck from oven and lower heat to 350 degrees. Pour wine over duck, and use a wooden spoon to lift and stir any brown bits that may be attached to the bottom of the roasting pan. Add chicken stock. Place sauteed vegetables evenly around the duck. Tent the roasting pan with aluminum foil, and return to oven for 1 hour.

After braising for 1 hour, remove roasting pan from oven and increase heat to 400 degrees. Drain away all liquid in the pan (this can be used as a gravy base, if desired). Return root vegetables to the roaster and place duck on top of the vegetables. Return to oven uncovered for 20 minutes. This final high heat roast ensures your duck will be browned and crispy. Serves 4 - 6.

NOTE: If you use a roasting rack, be sure the root vegetables are cut into large pieces so they don't fall through the grate openings.